While it may sound like a 1970s kid’s oven used for baking homemade jewelry, Bakelite is actually a synthetic resin that was once used in jewelry making. Known for its vibrant colors and smooth, glossy finish, Bakelite jewelry is much more than just plastic jewelry. In fact, some antique Bakelite jewelry is quite valuable because it is hard to find. But identifying Bakelite jewelry isn’t always easy. Read on to learn about testing for Bakelite, what exactly Bakelite jewelry is, where to find authentic antique Bakelite jewelry and more.
History of Bakelite Jewelry
It was invented in 1907 by chemist Leo Hendrik Baekeland, who created the Bakelite recipe by combining phenol and formaldehyde. Baekeland’s “Bakelite” was the first synthetic resin (early plastics were modified natural materials). Bakelite also replaced hard rubber in electric industry parts and, in the 1920s, was used extensively in items like knobs, dials, circuit panels, cabinet radios and in auto electrical systems.
In the 1930s, color was introduced to Bakelite, expanding its potential even further to include things like—you guessed it—jewelry. Now able to be produced in every color of the rainbow to a broader audience, Bakelite gained tremendous popularity, thanks in part to designers like Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli, who incorporated it into high fashion despite being made of inexpensive materials. Bold, colorful, playful Bakelite jewelry (such as chunky bracelets, geometric earrings or vibrant Bakelite bangles) were perfectly primed for success in the 20s and 30s Art Deco period, with their sleek lines and eye-catching qualities aligning with the era's vibe.
Bakelite jewelry ceased mass production around the 1940s as new, cheaper and more versatile plastics were developed. Bakelite was often more expensive and labor-intensive to manufacture and was typically more brittle, making it less desirable for everyday use. Despite only representing a blip in the history of jewelry, Bakelite is still a topic of conversation almost a century later!
How to Identify Bakelite Jewelry
Not all plastic-looking jewelry is Bakelite. Again, to be considered Bakelite, it must be made of phenol formaldehyde resin. A lot of costume jewelry is made of other materials like vinyl and plexiglass which are like Bakelite's plastic cousins. If you want to know if your jewelry pieces are authentic Bakelite, here are a few things you can try:
The Clunk Sound
While other plastic jewelry makes more of a sharp, light sound when they clink together, Bakelite makes a denser, hollow clunk sound. So? Does your plastic jewelry clink? Or clunk?
Weight a Minute
The weight of your jewelry can also be an indicator of how and of what it was made. Bakelite tends to be heavier than other synthetic jewelry. If your pieces are light as a feather, there’s a good chance they are made from plastic or celluloid (an early synthetic plastic made from plant fibers). That heftier, solid-feeling jewelry? That’s the Bakelite!
The Chink in the Armor
To identify an authentic old Bakelite piece, check for signs of wear like scratches, patina (a glossy, slightly worn or discolored appearance) and tiny chips. Use a magnifier if necessary, as even well-preserved Bakelite pieces typically show some minor wear.
It’s Seamless
Bakelite's seamless appearance is one of its distinguishing features. Because Bakelite jewelry is made using a unique mold process, there is never a seam in the jewelry. Other jewelry materials, however, will often have a seam because they are frequently made by fusing multiple pieces together or using molds that leave visible seams.
Testing for Bakelite
If you’re looking to take your identification to the next level, try the following techniques for testing for Bakelite:
The Sniff Test
Let’s go back to chemistry class for a moment. Remember, Bakelite is made of phenol and formaldehyde. Therefore, place the potential Bakelite jewelry in warm water for 30 seconds (or rub the jewelry in one spot, causing friction and heat). Next, smell the jewelry. If it’s genuine Bakelite, it will emit a distinctive chemical smell as the formaldehyde has been reactivated.
How Much is Bakelite Worth? Why Is It So Expensive?
For those hoping to find new, fresh-off-the-press Bakelite jewelry pieces to add to your collection, there’s bad news: Bakelite jewelry stopped being mass-produced in the 1940s. Therefore, existing Bakelite jewelry pieces tend to cost more than jewelry of seemingly similar quality.
Providing a specific price for Bakelite jewelry is impossible, as the pieces vary from big statement necklaces to small brooches and from perfect quality to worn-down-but-wearable. However, there are potentially rare Bakelite jewelry pieces, such as genuine Art Deco era designs or pieces from famous designers that may sell for more than one might expect!
Tips for Cleaning and Caring for Bakelite Jewelry
Cleaning Bakelite jewelry is fairly straightforward; however, following the instructions carefully is important, as Bakelite is often more fragile than other resin-based or plastic-like jewelry.
Step 1
First, rub your jewelry clean with a soft, dry cloth to remove any loose dirt, oil or debris. You can also use a soft-bristled brush to clean those hard-to-reach places, if necessary.
Step 2
Select a cleaning product. While mild dish soap may work, you may need to try a more heavy-duty cleaning product, such as Bakelite-specific cleaning products or common mildly abrasive cleaners. Avoid overly abrasive cleaners and harsh chemicals that can damage the jewelry’s surface. Make sure to follow all safety instructions on the cleaning product. Consider wearing protective gloves and working in a well-ventilated area.
Step 3
Apply your chosen cleaning product to the jewelry with a cloth and rub over the surface in a gentle, circular motion. Do not apply too much pressure to avoid damaging the often-fragile Bakelite pieces.
Step 4
Once you are done gently scrubbing the piece, follow the instructions specific to your cleaner. Some cleaners may have you remove the solution immediately, while others may recommend letting the cleaner dry until a cloudy, hazy film has appeared.
Step 5
You’ll then remove the excess cleaner by buffing the jewelry pieces with a soft, non-abrasive cloth until the shiny jewelry beneath is revealed. Avoid catching corners or decorative elements with your cloth, which may cause the fragile Bakelite piece to crack or chip.
Generally speaking, experts recommend keeping your Bakelite jewelry in an organized, safe place when not being worn. Jewelry should be properly stored in a dry, cool space out of direct sunlight and separately from other pieces to avoid damage. Remember, Bakelite can be fragile, so always handle it with caution and care.
Protect Your Jewelry Investment
Some Bakelite pieces can be worth a pretty penny today, especially if they are in excellent condition, are rare Bakelite jewelry pieces or have intricate designs. If you have valuable Bakelite jewelry (or any valuable jewelry for that matter), consider insuring it with a personal jewelry insurance policy from Jewelers Mutual. Individuals looking for jewelry insurance often think insuring their jewelry through a homeowners insurance policy is the best option. While a home insurance company may be an expert at insuring homes, a jewelry insurance company is an expert at insuring jewelry. Check your rate from Jewelers Mutual today by clicking the button below.
